Exploring Norway’s South Coast
In the summer, Norwegians take their holidays on the south coast, rambling in the forests, strolling up hills, swimming in tiny lakes and exploring the islands.
At the beginning of October, it’s still warm, but there’s no traffic on the roads and I have the place to myself. I arrive on a direct flight from London Stansted in Kristiansand, Norway’s fifth largest city, and I’m soon on the road heading west.
Lindesnes Lighthouse
At the most southerly point of mainland Norway is Lindesnes Fyr, the first lighthouse in the country, built by the King of Denmark in 1656. It’s where the North Sea meets the Baltic and, as you might expect, it’s a rugged spot.
For hundreds of years, the keepers had to drag coal all the way up to keep the lamp shining. In 1915 it was replaced by an iron structure and an electric light. It’s still functioning today and there’s a museum and an excellent restaurant. You can even spend the night in the lighthouse keeper’s cottage.
Boen Manor
Heading back east, just outside Kristiansand, is Boen Manor, situated on the banks of the Tovdalselva River. There’s salmon fishing here and that’s one of the main attractions.
The main house was built in 1813 and has been completely restored. Guests can stay here or in new accommodation right by the river, where you see the salmon jump from your window.
Risør
This will be my last stop, another 40km north, and it doesn’t disappoint. Risør is still a fishing port, its white wooden houses huddling around the harbour with pine forests behind. It dates from 1723, making it one of the oldest towns along the southern coast and thrived on timber and shipbuilding.